Make Your Garden Almost Weed-Free in March With Ground Cover

Anyone who does not want to spend every spring weekend on their knees weeding can make their garden almost weed-free with a clever planting technique.

Rather than carrying baskets full of weeds away from their borders, more and more amateur gardeners are relying on a living carpet of perennials. When chosen carefully and planted densely, ground-cover plants take on the work otherwise required from a hoe and by hand - and March is the best time to begin.

Why weeds keep returning despite constant weeding

A vast store of seeds lies dormant in the soil. Gardeners refer to this as a “seed bank”. Seeds that have accumulated for decades wait for light, moisture and air before they begin growing. That is precisely where the issue starts.

Digging deeply with a hoe or leaving beds bare for long periods brings these seeds to the surface. They receive light, germinate, and the weeding cycle starts all over again. In effect, every vigorous cultivation of the soil reopens the seed account.

Permanently bare soil practically invites wild plants in. Every gap will be occupied - either by perennials you choose or by what you regard as weeds.

Not every unwanted plant behaves in the same way, either. Annual species such as chickweed or purslane mainly spread by seed. Perennial plants with taproots, including dandelions and cleavers, grow deep into the ground and can regrow from remaining root fragments.

Different weed types need different approaches

Anyone wishing to reduce their workload needs a basic idea of what they are dealing with. In practice, this classification is usually enough:

• Annual wild plants: germinate from seed, flower, die back and leave behind fresh seed
• Perennial deep-rooted plants: form strong roots and regrow from pieces of root
• Woody seedlings: young trees and shrubs which, if removed too late, require considerable effort to get rid of

It is best to cut annual species off just above soil level rather than digging around deeply. This kills the plant without bringing new seeds up from lower down.

Perennial deep-rooted weeds require another method. The soil should be damp but not waterlogged. Their taproots can then be loosened fairly deeply with a weeding tool or narrow spade. The fewer root pieces left in the soil, the less often the plant is likely to return.

Small seedlings of maple, beech or ornamental shrubs also need attention. Ignore them and, within a few years, you will have a root problem in the border. Ideally, pull out these young plants during their first year; later, you will need to dig them out.

Living mulch: how perennials simply crowd out weeds

Bark mulch is the traditional solution for uncontrolled growth. It covers the soil and suppresses many seeds. However, it needs topping up regularly, uses up some nitrogen as it decomposes, and does not suit the appearance of every garden.

“Living mulch” is a far more interesting option. This means perennial ground cover that spreads over the earth like a green, flowering blanket. It shades the ground, deprives seedlings of light, and takes up water and nutrients before the “unwanted” plants can access them.

A dense carpet of perennials allows hardly any light to reach the soil - seedlings simply do not stand a chance.

These plants offer several benefits at once:

• They keep the soil cool and moist.
• They protect against soil capping and erosion during heavy rain.
• They provide insects with pollen, nectar and shelter.
• Over time, they save considerable effort because very little hoeing is needed.

Brunnera macrophylla - the star of spring ground cover

Among professionals, Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla) is regarded as a real workhorse for shady and partially shaded spots. This variety forms dense clumps, spreads willingly and makes a strong floral statement in spring.

Typical characteristics of this perennial:

Characteristic	Brunnera macrophylla
Position	Partial shade to shade, humus-rich soil
Flowering period	Roughly mid-March to mid-May
Flower colour	Bright blue, similar to forget-me-nots
Growth habit	Forms dense carpets and self-seeds readily
Special feature	Varieties with silver-patterned leaves are also available

Particularly in shaded borders, beneath shrubs or along the edge of woody planting, this perennial turns dull soil into a light-filled carpet of flowers. Where you once had to hoe between individual plants, a quick check is usually enough later on to see whether a persistent intruder has pushed through.

Planting ground cover in March: step by step

March is ideal because the soil has usually dried sufficiently while still retaining freshness. The plants then have an entire season to establish themselves before the following winter arrives.

1. Prepare the soil
   On a frost-free day, remove existing weeds thoroughly, including their roots. Loosen only the top layer and do not dig deeply, so that fresh seeds are not activated.

2. Work in compost
   Spread a thin layer of mature compost and rake it lightly into the surface. This supplies nutrients while keeping the soil comparatively undisturbed.

3. Keep planting distances close
   Ground-cover plants should deliberately be set closer together than conventional perennials. Depending on the species, a spacing of 20–30 centimetres is sensible. The aim is for the leaves to touch after just one or two years.

4. Water thoroughly
   Water every plant well after planting. This washes soil into air pockets between the roots and surrounding earth, helping the plants establish.

5. Support the first season
   During the first year, water occasionally, especially during dry spells, and pull out the few wild plants that emerge as early as possible.

March is considered the “starting signal”: plant carefully once, and the perennials will increasingly take over your weeding work.

Which perennials create lasting dense ground cover

Brunnera macrophylla is only one example. Suitable ground-cover plants are available for different garden conditions, and they work just as reliably.

Suitable species for shade and partial shade

• Siberian bugloss: Flowers early and prefers humus-rich, slightly moist soil.
• Barrenwort (Epimedium): Produces delicate spring flowers and copes surprisingly well with dry conditions beneath trees and shrubs.
• Barren strawberry: Evergreen with yellow flowers, suitable for more difficult spots beneath trees.

Sunny positions: flowers instead of gravel

In full sun, you need robust species that can withstand heat and drought:

• Thyme and other cushion-forming herbs: Fragrant, flowering and attractive to bees; ideal for edges and dry-stone walls.
• Stonecrop species (Sedum): Cope well with poor soils and store water in their leaves.
• Cranesbill varieties: Form loose yet fairly closed carpets and bring plenty of colour to borders.

It is important to plant several specimens of one species rather than mixing individual plants together too randomly. A larger block of the same perennial looks calmer and covers the soil more effectively than a collection of isolated specimens.

Tips for keeping a flowering carpet easy to maintain

Living mulch is not entirely maintenance-free. However, a few simple rules will keep the workload low:

• Avoid constantly disturbing the soil: The less you hoe, the more dormant the soil’s “seed bank” remains.
• Keep an eye on the edges: Simply cut back ground cover that becomes too vigorous with a spade, then give away the excess or plant it elsewhere.
• Consider light conditions: Perennials in shade often grow slightly taller and more openly. In heavily shaded areas, combining different species can be worthwhile.
• Feed selectively rather than excessively: In most gardens, a little compost once a year is entirely sufficient.

If you are unsure how a species will behave, test it in a smaller area first. This quickly shows whether its growth habit, height and flowers suit your own garden style.

What terms such as “living mulch” really mean

The term “living mulch” ultimately describes a simple idea: instead of laying organic material such as bark pieces over the soil, a layer of plants performs the same role - with far more life and colour.

For the soil, this means less variation in temperature and more consistent activity from soil life, while earthworms and micro-organisms thrive more easily. Over the years, this has a positive effect on soil structure. Water drains away more effectively, while waterlogging and dust-dry conditions occur less often.

The risks remain limited, provided you do not choose extremely invasive species. Anyone planting ground cover that spreads too enthusiastically, such as certain forms of ivy or ground elder, will need to intervene more later on. Better choices are species that close over the soil while still remaining manageable.

The concept is also interesting when combined with vegetable gardens. Low, walkable plants can be planted between taller crops to protect the soil. Examples include low-growing thyme varieties around the edges or clover in undisturbed corners. This creates a system in which food crops and ground cover work together - and leaves the weeding basket considerably smaller.